Which resin to use for desk


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dmgeurts
dmgeurts
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Having done some research I see that not all resins are good to use for table/bar/desk use due to the possibility of scratching the surface. Before people suggest normal paint, I've had plenty of bad experiences with this and rubber feet of equipment stood on painted surfaces for prolonged periods of time. Additionally I'd like to have more 'depth' in the colour/design of the desk. That said I'm not planning to embed coins or other objects in the resin.

My thoughts currently:

Base coat: EC "High Qual​ity GP Poly​ester Lami​natin​g Resi​n" with pigment added over degreased MDF.
Mid coat: same as above but with metallic flakes added.
One or two top coat: EC "Patte​rn Coat Hi-G​loss - Toug​h, High Glos​s Fini​sh for Comp​osite (Fib​regla​ss) Patt​erns".

I'd like to get a matt finish and am hoping to obtain this through not completely buffing up the top coat after sanding. Will have to wait and see which looks best. Optionally I could apply an automotive 2 part coat but due to the size of the desk it has to be made in situ so if I can do without it would mean I don't have to invest in spray painting equipment.

My concerns are with the heat resistance of the resin (think of hot mugs and solder dropping where it shouldn't). My understanding is that the Polyester resin should be hard enough to prevent easy scratching. A heat resistant hard resin seems hard to find.

I noticed that some model plane builders mix acetone into the resin to thin it. My thinking is that this would help in levelling the applied resin which would reduce the need for excessive sanding.
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Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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If it is still made by skinning then i would stick with our Epoxy Coating Resin as found in our skinning kits. 

The specialist "bar top" type resins seen in the US are mostly for much thicker castings or encapsulation of objects like pennies.

Epoxies are generally all fairly hard wearing and all the epoxies we have are harder wearing than the polyesters we supply.  Also most polyesters cure tacky in air contact which would not be ideal when skinning.

Our
Epoxy Coating Resin has a HDT upto 80C so normally you will be fine with most hot cups of tea as long as you arent pouring the straight from the kettle boiling water everywhere!  Ideally you would want to post-cure the table in an oven to ensure it is fully cured throughout before use. 

Lacquering isnt a bad idea especially 2 part automotive lacquers as you can get the satin finish out the spray gun and also modern automotive lacquers are all UV stable.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
dmgeurts
dmgeurts
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Warren (Staff) (07/01/2015)
If it is still made by skinning then i would stick with our Epoxy Coating Resin as found in our skinning kits. 

The specialist "bar top" type resins seen in the US are mostly for much thicker castings or encapsulation of objects like pennies.

Epoxies are generally all fairly hard wearing and all the epoxies we have are harder wearing than the polyesters we supply.  Also most polyesters cure tacky in air contact which would not be ideal when skinning.

Our
Epoxy Coating Resin has a HDT upto 80C so normally you will be fine with most hot cups of tea as long as you arent pouring the straight from the kettle boiling water everywhere!  Ideally you would want to post-cure the table in an oven to ensure it is fully cured throughout before use. 

Lacquering isnt a bad idea especially 2 part automotive lacquers as you can get the satin finish out the spray gun and also modern automotive lacquers are all UV stable.


Thank you. I have no intention of skinning with cloth as there's no need to add rigidity to the base material. The desk will be too big for post curing, hence the epoxy needs to be applied in situ. The smell of polyester resin is certainly something I hadn't considered (or researched).
GO

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