Galvanic reaction Carbon on Aluminum how to prevent question


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JaWillis
JaWillis
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Any input on this would be appreciated

Maybe you can help me. I will be extending a piece of aluminum tubing by first cutting the tubing then inserting a carbon fiber "ferrule" if you will, to extend the tubing. I will then wrap the splice with carbon fiber tape and resin. 

1. What adhesive can I use at the insertion point to bond the aluminum tubing to the ferrule? Will it there be a galvanic response?
2. What do I put in between the carbon fiber wrap and the Aluminum to prevent galvanization?

My third question is how to adhere your prefab carbon tubing to pre-preg carbon fiber? Example: a 42mm ID tubing which happens to be the exact size id of a bicycle Bottom Bracket PF30. (press fit 30). However I need to beef up the wall thickness by wrapping pre-preg around it, then compress and heat to cure. I am concerned there may be a delamination issue between the tubing and the pre-preg. Is there something I need to treat the tubing with prior to applying pre-preg? 

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jim W
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JaWillis
JaWillis
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Wooza

What are your thoughts on these types carbon frame designs. The headset is the integrated type and the BB is for a PF30. My thought is to build these features into my molds for the headtube and the BB. This is not for a mountain bike, its for a gravel road bike, basically  road bike with bigger 38 size tires.
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/2680be24-cd79-4d9a-b01f-4310.pnghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/b1d7fa5f-d647-4833-8eb2-b614.png
Edited 11 Years Ago by JaWillis
wozza
wozza
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JaWillis (25/10/2014)
Wooza

What are your thoughts on these types carbon frame designs. The headset is the integrated type and the BB is for a PF30. My thought is to build these features into my molds for the headtube and the BB. This is not for a mountain bike, its for a gravel road bike, basically  road bike with bigger 38 size tires.
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/2680be24-cd79-4d9a-b01f-4310.pnghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/b1d7fa5f-d647-4833-8eb2-b614.png


Hi, I am no expert on frame design but I do have a decent understanding of the engineering behind it.
For years now manufactures have been trying to increase the stiffness of frames around the bottom bracket area. particularly on full suspension bikes where suspension pivots are often mounted. one way of doing this is to increase the size of the chain set shaft/tube. This however means external rather than internal bearings. This resulted in cartridge bearings being screwed into the ally/steel bottom tube.
When composite frames began to be developed this caused a problem, machining the thread in the now carbon tube. Different manufactures tried different things resulting in the vast array of BB styles you see now.
One method was the press fit style you mention. This method has a few issues, press fit requires extremely accurate machining and requires machining from both sides of the frame to produce the rebate for the shells. As the BB is often the datum point for any subsequent machining this means complex and expensive fixtures are required to hold the bare frames accurately in position which is costly. Also you can only really replace the press fit shells two or three times before the housings become oversize and the frame is effectively scrap. It also requires specialist tools so a trip to the bike shop is required.
Trek used a slightly different approach, bonding ally cups into the frame and then the bearing shells fitted into these cups. This also means that the bottom tube only requires machining from one side, keeping costs down. The trade off is a little more weight.
As for which is better I prefer the Trek method but that is just my opinion. I suppose much depends on what facilities you have access to machining wise, but either way it has to be extremely accurate.

Hope that has helped and not confused things Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
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