First mould advice


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Jut
Jut
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Hello Smile

I've been lurking on here for a bit now, watching the videos and soaking up all the info I can. I think I'm at the point where I've learnt as much as I can and it's time to get my hands dirty.

My first project is to create a carbon panel to replace the air bag on the Momo sterring wheel from my Accord Type R.

I want to take a mould of the plastic cover that the airbag bursts through when things go wrong.  This cover has a leather effect grain, which I would like to fill and smooth before I take the mould.

Can I use regular high build filler primer from a Halfords rattle can ? My plan is to spray a few good coats over the whole part and then wet sand it smooth. Would this provide a suiatble surface for tooling gel ? Or would I need to seal it up with something else first ?

I hope I've explained myself properly Wink
SiSmith
SiSmith
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Would some of the filleting wax wax not be easier to fill the grain? Also acting as a mould release agent?


You could always then clean off the wax and retain the original part if you wanted to refit the airbag when it comes to selling it on.
Jut
Jut
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That sounds like a good idea. If it wasn't for the fact that the airbag has already been deployed (in my face) that would probably work.  Because I've had to glue the panel back together the surface isn't great, plus there are some logos I want to fill in.  I really need a surface that I can sand smooth.
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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In my opinion it could work but I have some additional remarks;

- my english isn't that well but "a filler/primer rattle can" is a spraycan?
  I don't really know the brand or product but filler in spraycans I know dont really "fill" surfaces... the just fill small scratches before spraying the topcoat Smile

- When I use filler/ bondo for the mould where I laminate on , I always like to use a highgloss colour out of a spraycan. It helps me to find errors and gets you a better
  finish to clean and put the mouldrelease on...

- at school I've seen some students laminating on the filler and the part didn't released after waxing it for 4 times Wink the filler and epoxy just mixed or something i think...



I hope this may help but you should maybe ask for some more advice or approval of what I just tols you Smile

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Jut
Jut
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So all I have to do is spray a topcoat on and it's ready to take a mould ?

Thanks mate, that's exactly what I needed to know Smile
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Euh,

Step1. well I've been thinking... you should be sure the bondo is attached well enough to your airbagplate...
otherwise you will make the mould and when you want to release the mould you could maybe remove the airbagplate and still have the bondo attached on your mould.
So make sure the bondo will stay on the leather textured piece.

step 2.  once you sanded the bondo you spray a primer out of a spraycan for example
step 3.  you spray a glossy colour out of a spraycan on it ( do it in a several layers and maybe check on youtube how to spray if you haven't done it much before)
step 4.  Let it dry long enough to make sure it "cured" fully
step 5.  clean the surface and put mouldrelease on it
step 6.  make the mould like EC-guys explained 

good luck and I hope it will work Wink 
Can not guarantee for 100% it will work, but thats the way I would do it Wink

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Edited 13 Years Ago by matthieutje65
andygtt
andygtt
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dont use halfords rattle cans... they can react when making the mould and ruin your mould.

use a decent paint for both the primer and top coat.... better finish you get to the part prior to pulling a mould the better the finished part.

also if you are using any kind of bagging technique for the carbon make the release edges at least 2-3 inches.

I made all the above mistakes on my first mould recently Smile 
Jut
Jut
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Thanks for the info, What brand of rattle cans would you recomend ?
andygtt
andygtt
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Have to say I cant recomend rattle cans at all... probably best to ask EC

I used 2 pac paint and sprayed using pro paint gear which might not be an option.

Incidentally despite having 2 pac primer AND 2 pac paint on top and area of my latest mould reacted  this week and I had to remove the gel coat and do some repair and re-do it.

Moral, using cheap rattle cans anywhere on your buck is a very very bad idea lol
Joe
Joe
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Hi,

I would not go for the rattle can either, I've been that way and had sad surprises too.

However, I heared people from this forum having good results with this, but its not your average rattle can. At least you dont need the compressor and paint gun.

Better check twice if it will fit your application tho, you never know.

 



 


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