Need advice on how to flange this...


Author
Message
whitecel
whitecel
Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)Supreme Being (133 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 19, Visits: 39
Hey guys,
  Had another problem on the same mold.  I'm having difficulties flagging this piece.  I know it looks simple but I'm still new.  I've tried to cut strips of cardboard for a flange and hot glue it around the edges but with all the curves it wasn't working very well.  Then I tried laying it flat on cardboard and building all sides with clay, but that wasn't working either.  It was using excessive amounts of clay.  especially the side on the pic.  Any other suggestions would be great.

Thanks


Replies
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)Supreme Being (21K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K
Alibro (03/07/2014)
Wrapping is just unnecessary weight and often doesn't work well on plastic trims like this. This is such an easy part to mould and produce, it just takes a bit of practice to know where you need to put things.

Fair point but unless you intend making multiple items, making a mould is a lot of work and money. For some people who just want the carbon look then wrapping is easier and cheaper.


There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls. If I wanted to go even cheaper, I'd just fill some polyester laminating resin with microballoons or similar until it's thick enough, then use that as the gelcoat. Won't polish up as nicely, but can always clear the final part. A mould like that on a part this size wouldn't cost you more than 5 bucks in materials. Time sure, but you get out what you put into it.

whitecel (03/07/2014)
Ok so I tried a somewhat similar method to hanaldo except I used cardboard.  It worked well until I was trying to attach the cardboard sections to the base board using fillet wax.  Cardboard just flexes to much that I could press the two together using the wax.  Guess I gotta get thicker material 


It's always better if you make it solid, rather than rely on soft substances like wax to hold it on. I hot glue mine, and build supports underneath areas that need it. Here's a few photo's of a part I'm currently in the process of flanging. Not the part I was going to show you as this one isn't as closely related to your part, but you can see the technique I'm using.

I use tape to get the general shape, and decide where I want to cut:



Stick that on my coreflute, and draw up my flange around it:



Cut on the line:



Attach the first section:



Get the shape to fill the gap:



Leave a bit of a gap so that you can fillet nicely: 



Then fillet your gaps and radius any 90 degree corners that are created:

https://scontent-a-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/934743_10152108297862541_1976433633351861459_n.jpg


Repeat the process as many times as needed:



Just remember to watch your draft angles and adjust your flanges accordingly:

https://scontent-a-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/r270/10313172_10152108297782541_8785945843232507508_n.jpg




Do that every time the pattern changes shape. I find it easiest to do the easy, flat sections first. Then think about how to fill the gaps in between them. 
Alibro
Alibro
Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)Supreme Being (292 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 44, Visits: 384
There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls. If I wanted to go even cheaper, I'd just fill some polyester laminating resin with microballoons or similar until it's thick enough, then use that as the gelcoat. Won't polish up as nicely, but can always clear the final part. A mould like that on a part this size wouldn't cost you more than 5 bucks in materials. Time sure, but you get out what you put into it.


Ok You win, [bows down in submission] BigGrin

Loving your photos and explanation.


macgtech
macgtech
Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)Supreme Being (129 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 20, Visits: 102
There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls.


This is interesting - what do you do to ensure that it pulls freely if you use polyester - what do you do about a release agent?

MacG Racing Ltd., UK based Motorsport Racing Team - follow us on Twitter and on Facebook
wozza
wozza
Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)Supreme Being (4.9K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K
macgtech (04/11/2014)
There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls.


This is interesting - what do you do to ensure that it pulls freely if you use polyester - what do you do about a release agent?


I often do the same for one offs/prototypes. Either use PVA or an epoxy compatible in mould clear gelcoat like GC50, then you can use a semi perm as the epoxy isn't in contact with the poly gelcoat of the mould.

Carbon Copies Ltd
GO

Merge Selected

Merge into selected topic...



Merge into merge target...



Merge into a specific topic ID...




Threaded View
Threaded View
whitecel - 11 Years Ago
Alibro - 11 Years Ago
f1rob - 11 Years Ago
Alibro - 11 Years Ago
Hanaldo - 11 Years Ago
Alibro - 11 Years Ago
whitecel - 11 Years Ago
whitecel - 11 Years Ago
Hanaldo - 11 Years Ago
Alibro - 11 Years Ago
macgtech - 11 Years Ago
wozza - 11 Years Ago
Hanaldo - 11 Years Ago
wozza - 11 Years Ago
Hanaldo - 11 Years Ago
macgtech - 11 Years Ago

Similar Topics

Reading This Topic

Explore
Messages
Mentions
Search