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Need advice on how to flange this...
Need advice on how to flange this...
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whitecel
whitecel
posted 11 Years Ago
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Hey guys,
Had another problem on the same mold. I'm having difficulties flagging this piece. I know it looks simple but I'm still new. I've tried to cut strips of cardboard for a flange and hot glue it around the edges but with all the curves it wasn't working very well. Then I tried laying it flat on cardboard and building all sides with clay, but that wasn't working either. It was using excessive amounts of clay. especially the side on the pic. Any other suggestions would be great.
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
posted 11 Years Ago
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Alibro (03/07/2014)
Wrapping is just unnecessary weight and often doesn't work well on plastic trims like this. This is such an easy part to mould and produce, it just takes a bit of practice to know where you need to put things.
Fair point but unless you intend making multiple items, making a mould is a lot of work and money. For some people who just want the carbon look then wrapping is easier and cheaper.
There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls. If I wanted to go even cheaper, I'd just fill some polyester laminating resin with microballoons or similar until it's thick enough, then use that as the gelcoat. Won't polish up as nicely, but can always clear the final part. A mould like that on a part this size wouldn't cost you more than 5 bucks in materials. Time sure, but you get out what you put into it.
whitecel (03/07/2014)
Ok so I tried a somewhat similar method to hanaldo except I used cardboard. It worked well until I was trying to attach the cardboard sections to the base board using fillet wax. Cardboard just flexes to much that I could press the two together using the wax. Guess I gotta get thicker material
It's always better if you make it solid, rather than rely on soft substances like wax to hold it on. I hot glue mine, and build supports underneath areas that need it. Here's a few photo's of a part I'm currently in the process of flanging. Not the part I was going to show you as this one isn't as closely related to your part, but you can see the technique I'm using.
I use tape to get the general shape, and decide where I want to cut:
Stick that on my coreflute, and draw up my flange around it:
Cut on the line:
Attach the first section:
Get the shape to fill the gap:
Leave a bit of a gap so that you can fillet nicely:
Then fillet your gaps and radius any 90 degree corners that are created:
Repeat the process as many times as needed:
Just remember to watch your draft angles and adjust your flanges accordingly:
Do that every time the pattern changes shape. I find it easiest to do the easy, flat sections first. Then think about how to fill the gaps in between them.
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Alibro
Alibro
posted 11 Years Ago
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There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls. If I wanted to go even cheaper, I'd just fill some polyester laminating resin with microballoons or similar until it's thick enough, then use that as the gelcoat. Won't polish up as nicely, but can always clear the final part. A mould like that on a part this size wouldn't cost you more than 5 bucks in materials. Time sure, but you get out what you put into it.
Ok You win, [bows down in submission]
Loving your photos and explanation.
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macgtech
macgtech
posted 11 Years Ago
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There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls.
This is interesting - what do you do to ensure that it pulls freely if you use polyester - what do you do about a release agent?
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wozza
wozza
posted 11 Years Ago
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macgtech (04/11/2014)
There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I make for customers that are unlikely to fit anyone elses car, I use a standard polyester gelcoat rather than a tooling gel. Cheap as chips, and is even strong enough to last 10 or so pulls.
This is interesting - what do you do to ensure that it pulls freely if you use polyester - what do you do about a release agent?
I often do the same for one offs/prototypes. Either use PVA or an epoxy compatible in mould clear gelcoat like GC50, then you can use a semi perm as the epoxy isn't in contact with the poly gelcoat of the mould.
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Need advice on how to flange this...
whitecel
-
11 Years Ago
Had a similar problem with a part I was working with. Didn't really get a good solution as the two...
Alibro
-
11 Years Ago
Will have a try,easy to do but bloody hard to explain ! we use melamine faced chipboard as base...
f1rob
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11 Years Ago
Ha, never thought of using chipboard Nice one, I used clay for my last attempt at making a flange...
Alibro
-
11 Years Ago
[quote][b]Alibro (03/07/2014)[/b][hr]Ha, never thought of using chipboard Nice one, I used clay for...
Hanaldo
-
11 Years Ago
[quote]Wrapping is just unnecessary weight and often doesn't work well on plastic trims like this....
Alibro
-
11 Years Ago
Please do Hanaldo. You always been a great help since I started infusing. Thanks
whitecel
-
11 Years Ago
Ok so I tried a somewhat similar method to hanaldo except I used cardboard. It worked well until I...
whitecel
-
11 Years Ago
[quote][b]Alibro (03/07/2014)[/b][hr][quote]Wrapping is just unnecessary weight and often doesn't...
Hanaldo
-
11 Years Ago
[quote]There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that I...
Alibro
-
11 Years Ago
[quote] There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's just a one off. For custom parts that...
macgtech
-
11 Years Ago
[quote][b]macgtech (04/11/2014)[/b][hr][quote] There's always ways to make the mould cheaper if it's...
wozza
-
11 Years Ago
I don't have any issues with using epoxy in polyester moulds. 8 coats of Frekote, nothing will stick...
Hanaldo
-
11 Years Ago
[quote][b]Hanaldo (04/11/2014)[/b][hr]I don't have any issues with using epoxy in polyester moulds....
wozza
-
11 Years Ago
I have on a few occasions when getting a car ready for competition been forced to turn around a part...
Hanaldo
-
11 Years Ago
Great, thanks for the replies. Spraying the polyester gelcoat with PVA was too obvious - not sure...
macgtech
-
11 Years Ago
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