Lamborghini Gallardo Audio Interior Project

Hi,

Well I'm having loads of fun doing this build for my 2004 Lamborghini Gallardo. As a quick introduction, I've been doing fiberglass work on the side for 12 years now. I'm not a professional, just a guy with a hobby I guess. Smile

Anyway, I had gotten fed up with the audio system in my Gallardo. It's a nice car but not comfortable and the stock system was bad.

SO, I'm about 2% into this build, which will put an ipad mini in the dash, controlling the audio system, nav, etc. this has been done before, though haven't seen it on this make of car, but I was driving back from Birmingham a month ago and was using my iPhone as a little nav to get to a friend's house and though, you know, this would work!

Ok, long story short this is where I'm at so far, I figured I'd post up the first part completed. That said, if anyone is particularly interested, I've been taking pictures of nearly every step along the way.

This is the Subwoofer enclosure. It holds one Focal WX 21 8" woofer and positions behind the seats.

This is a 18mm MDF skeleton frame. I used a round over router bit on all the edges to give smooth transitions. The center ring is routered out of the same MDF and inset with a 9mm lip, again for smooth transition.

The frame was then covered in thick fleece and fully impregnated with Easy Components' lamination resin. I let this fully cure, then wet layer a layer of CSM followed by 3 layers of fiberglass twill. To be honest, the CSM didn't help. It did little more than add sanding time. And I used the powder-based CSM, which didn't break down, making it very difficult to adhere and shape as I wanted. So most of it was sanded off. The twill was a great reinforcement and had great flexibility and adhesion to a tacky resin layer for wet laying. I probably could've built up more layers for added density, but I didn't think it needed it (I will explain why I think this).

After sanding down with a course grit (40 & 80) on the orbital, I used U-Pol's 'Extra' body filler to give a smooth surface. Because I used the fleece and twill as my reinforcement, there was VERY LITTLE filling that needed to be done. This step is to fix imperfections, not to shape the part. I think this is a common mistake lots of people make and try to adjust shape with building up filler. So some areas required at most 1.5mm of filler. The sign of a good shape!

I let that fully cure and then applied a coat of Easy Composites' black skinning resin. I wasn't entirely happy with the thickness of the coat so I let it fully cure, gave it an even sanding, then applied a second layer, letting that one go to tack.

As they say, then the critical part, I layer the carbon twill. I used Easy Composites' Profinish 2x2 twill. And for this complex shape IM SO GLAD I DID! The weave held up amazingly around these tough curves. I did pull off and reapply the carbon a couple times as I got it in position, which did distort the weave in a few areas... So this part didn't come out perfect, but it's very good and as most of it will be hidden, I'm extremely happy with the results. But as a lesson learned, this is absolutely the most critical step. I would've rather, in retrospect, used multiple pieces. Though it may not look it, this is just a very ambitious shape for a single piece to bend.

After laying, I immediately coated with a thin layer of Easy Composites' epoxy coating resin. I was surprised that this is actually LESS clear after mixing than the lamination epoxy, but once dried it DOES go perfectly clear. I let that fully impregnate and fully cure.

Then I sanded fully with a 150 grit on the orbital. I applied another layer and again let fully cure. And again sanded with a 150g. I then applied 3 subsequent layers, allowing them to tack before the next layer was added. As a note, with the supplied hardener, you've got TONS of time to work, so I would mix it and let it settle for 10 minutes. Then apply. Because of the shape, it did want to run in any direction regardless of the thinness of the coats. So some places I waited until nearer the end of the pot life to apply. You've really got to be familiar with your working time at this point. I used digital scales and a temperature controlled work space to ensure I knew exactly how much time I was dealing with.

I used a hair dryer to get some of the air bubbles, but I didn't get them all. To fix this, I did one last layer of resin and applied it by dipping my hand (with latex glove on) into the resin and massaging it in to the entire part. Paying close attention to any air bubbles I found. As it turns out, once I sanded these would all be gone anyway, but it was a good measure to get anything I missed during setup.

I then sanded... And sanded... And sanded. I started with 220g on the orbital until the entire surface was even. Then I started wet sanding. I first used 600, then 800, then 1500, then 2500. When I'd finished I wasn't happy with the surface. This is because I didn't get enough of the 220 swirls out before moving to the next grit!!

So I started over! I did a wet sand with 220 to refresh the surface. Then went to 400g. A trick I use is I will sand different patterns for every grit. Circular for 220, then vertical for 400. Horizontal for 600, circular for 800, etc. I always do the LAST sand in circular to give a better finish. But the key is, if you can still see the last grit's pattern, you're not done sanding!

I spent just under 20 hours sanding this part.

Then I used AutoGlym polishing compound. I did this all by hand. I would like to go back and do it with a power buffer at some point. Then used an AutoGlym sealant.

NOW, as this is not as dense as some enclosures, I coated the entire inside (not in this picture) with a black sealing rubber. Essentially a roofing product, but it works WONDERS for providing an interior dampening and density coating for car audio. Not a lot of people do this, and then they throw 30kg of dynamite on their cars!

And that's it! Next will either be the door cards (which I will be vacuum infusing over moulds once I finish making the moulds) or the front boot. Rally just whichever one I plan out its construction first. And then I'll make a small carbon part for the ipad install. But Apple will likely be updating the mini in the next couple months, so I'd like to wait and see first.

Please comment and let me know what I can improve!

~Vlad