Talk Composites - The Forum for Advanced Composites

Flanges for vacuum bagging

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Topic33742.aspx

By raygun - 9/14/2019 7:43:26 PM

So, I'm very, very new to all of this. Pardon the mess in the picture.

I'm  trying to figure out the best (or even good) way to add flanges to this fender in order to get a smooth surface on the mold. The shape is pretty complex (for me, at least). I've tried layers of masking tape, HVAC aluminum tape, corrugated plastic sign board - very difficult to fit to this shape, especially in the section in the bottom-left part of this picture - and some other stuff I can't remember.

Aluminum tape is the easiest to work with as it molds nicely and sticks to the part without jumping through hoops. However, it has a very anti-smooth surface. The resulting mold is something that I feel won't seal well for bagging.

Any suggestions?  Somebody  elsewhere mentioned using foam blocks, but I'm not sure how to implement that.




Also, since I can't find the "edit" button: I'm happy to trim the part when it comes out of the mold. The "top" of the fender, in the bottom-left of the picture, has a shape like

```\___/```\___/```

(pardon ASCII art). Cutting out the fjords after demolding is perfectly acceptable.


I'm sure I'm over-thinking this.
By MarkMK - 9/19/2019 8:57:52 AM

As Hanaldo mentioned, fluted signboard is quite flexible in a single direction and can be useful where you need to create a bit of an angle between the section that's stuck to the back of the part and the flange itself

I prefer to use 1mm polypropylene sheet, where possible, as it's self-releasing and can be easily cut with scissors into the widths required. With a little heat applied, it can also be formed around corners

If you have narrow return sections all the way around the part, you can bond some foam blocks to the back of the part and sand them level with the edge of the parts' returns. Whatever material you then choose to make your flanges from can be bonded to the foam blocks to create flanges that are perpendicular to the parts' main section.

A hot melt glue gun is very useful for this task and everything can be quite easily pulled away afterwards. The more blocks that you apply will help make the bonded flange material more stable and likely to stay put when you apply filleting wax to the transition line between the part and flange.