Just decided to have a specific fuel tank mould as knife and forking one from the monocoque mould was never going to be perfect....

Going to look very nice I'm sure. Your method of doing the filler cap is what impresses me the most. I must learn to do this, I really hate secondary bonding. 

Can I ask what pre pre you are using.

It is still under a development number at SHD at the moment. If you contact them and ask for Glenn he will let you know if you let him know Rich from P3 told you to call him... 

Anyway here are a few more photos... I made the mould more of a satin on purpose is it looks a little dull and there is still some release residue on there too..

Very nice work,rich iam in the process off sorting a effecient oven out,but got impatience and post cured an old mold to test.and put in an old oven with no vaccum connecting into oven,just bagged the part came out pretty good a few pin holes not many.iam used to infusion,so pre preg is a lot nicer to work with,regarding curing,the material your using,could you advise on tempreture curing procedure any advise welcome.

Cure cycles are hard to pin down.. It depends on the oven, mould, material and may need some testing. I would suggest getting a ramp and dwell controller ( a rework controller for electronics rework stations work but need a little thinking about as they usually only work in seconds per sector so you may be limited to 8 sectors at 9999 seconds each.) I am using one myself and have a 3 stage cycle with a lower temp first and a ramp speed of about 1 degree per minute then a dwell set before going up to the next step again at 1 degree per minute, dwell and then the final temp at 1 degree per minute to complete the final cure stage. 

I spent about 6 months testing materials and cure cycles to perfect mine. The dwell lets the mould catch up with the oven and I keep it below the lowest suggested cure temp for a while before the final stage goes into the actual cure temp and cure duration. 

Wow. that looks awesome! Can you post a picture of the tank after it's all done and sealed down? The pic you've posted is just the top and the sides of the outshell or is it the complete one?

Before bonding the two parts are dry fitted to make sure it has an overlap but does not spread the tank open more than the original 



The tank is now bonded and you can see the finished weight.. The original one was 4.5KG

Awesome work!