core material


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andygtt
andygtt
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I made doors for my noble... Take a look in the Motorsport projects section on here.

I made mine much stronger than the original doors, with a soric core and Kevlar etc... The doors weigh 6kgs bare or 9kgs with glass and electric windows etc.

I recomend a soric core for body panels as it reduces the weight of the panel whilst giving it huge ridgidty... You can't flex my doors even a little!




kidpaint
kidpaint
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okay, thanks. I can see in the pictures what you mean by crushing or collapsing in where the core is. I was under the understanding that where you were to say bolt the hinge on a door or hood, that you would epoxy a metal piece, or sandwich it inbetween the layers of cf. This would either be drilled and tapped later or would have a floating nut on it and that was the "hard" in the hard points. What I get from you two is that I just need to maybe add a few more layers of cf to this area to thicken it up or use a type of insert?
Edited 11 Years Ago by kidpaint
ajb100
ajb100
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Better example was this running repair at a track when the team broke it


Tried to show the best I can how the heads have sunk in and crushed the honeycombe inside
ajb100
ajb100
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As warren said, the hard points need to be solid and quite thick. Aluminium inserts are also useful to protect the carbon from the abrasive ness of the the thread when tightening or any movement in use and helps to spread the load.

If you use a core material, the clamping force can crush the core, deforming the part and gradually reducing the camping force by the bolt causing it to come loose. The pic below is just a part hitting the ground and has caused the aluminium honeycombe to collapse leaving long gouges in the part


wozza
wozza
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kidpaint (12/01/2014)
Lucky for me I have plenty of access to paint as I do it for a living, (also auto body) I did a quick search on here for hard mounting threads and didnt come up with anything. Am I missing it. Id like to do a little more reading on this also. I feel that I have a good idea of it, but never hurts to keep learning.



Sounds like you already have the skills required to prepare and finish patterns and moulds thenSmile Spray Booths/Ovens also make useful curing ovens for composites.Wink

By hard points I mean areas where there is no core. Most core materials don't like high compressive loads. So if you drill a hole and tighten a bolt/fixing through it you will simply crush/deform the panel.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
kidpaint
kidpaint
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Lucky for me I have plenty of access to paint as I do it for a living, (also auto body) I did a quick search on here for hard mounting threads and didnt come up with anything. Am I missing it. Id like to do a little more reading on this also. I feel that I have a good idea of it, but never hurts to keep learning.
wozza
wozza
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kidpaint (12/01/2014)
Thanks for the reply wozza. This is something that I am not going to start right away as I would like to do a little more mental planning on my end. Also I have to finish smoothing any imperfections out of the doors. I am not to worried on the hard mounting points for the inner skin at this moment. Although, I may have questions when it comes to that time lol. 



No problem. Any questions that crop up just ask, there are plenty of helpful people on here.
Just remember when smoothing out the doors that the final finish will need to be compatible with the mould system you are planning on using otherwise you could have release problems. 2k paint is usually a safe bet as long as it is fully cured, preferably baked.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
kidpaint
kidpaint
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Thanks for the reply wozza. This is something that I am not going to start right away as I would like to do a little more mental planning on my end. Also I have to finish smoothing any imperfections out of the doors. I am not to worried on the hard mounting points for the inner skin at this moment. Although, I may have questions when it comes to that time lol. 
wozza
wozza
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Hi, doors are not the easiest of panels to do. You will have to take moulds from your existing doors of the outer and inner skins. Also you will have to build in hard points for mounting hinges, lock mechanisms etc.
Core materials are really just a way of separating the layers of CF. In basic terms the greater the distance (thicker the core ) between the layers the stiffer/stronger the panel will be. This is because the fibres have to stretch further for a given deflection.
Typical lay-up for the outer skin would be 2 layers CF - 3mm Soric - Kevlar/Aramid ( to give some pierce protection and reduce splintering if the worst happens ) - E Glass. If the panel is fairly flat you could use Closed Cell Foam in place of the Soric. This would result in a slightly lighter panel as the resin up-take is less but it doesn't conform to curves like Soric.


Hope that helps and good luck with the project. Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
kidpaint
kidpaint
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Hi,
    I have done some small parts in CF and FG, even some skins. I have also done some searching on the internet and also on here as I am trying to make larger parts.  I am looking at making a full carbon fiber set of doors for my Audi. It will mostly be a daily driver. (I say mostly as I ride my motorcycle in the summer and truck in the winter.) I will also do weekend racing in the summer at the track.) I am looking for this to be light and still look good. If I can pull this off I will move to other body panels. But my question is this. Do you have to put a core material in between the layers of CF or will CF be enough? If you do, how to you factor where to put it? Lasty, what is the purpose of it? The car will be use for hauling kids around and things so I want to do it right but still be strong enough.

Thanks in Advance
GO

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