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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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Yes having read the principle of resin being pushed in under atmospheric pressure i should know this but basic in experience is the kill. When that stuff is flowing through like beer down an alcies neck its very easy to switch forget basic stuff.lol I don't mind problems, in fact im open to them as its the quickest way to learn. So I can simply control the resin ratio via the inlet clamps, leave them open to get a heavier resin to cloth mix? Next cosmetic part I do i think I'll will leave it a few seconds later and see, you got a good time?
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
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Yes you can throttle the resin feed quite easily with a line clamp.
Also for cosmetic parts you can leave the resin feed open a little longer than you normally would to make the part slightly resin rich thus hopefully meaning you will have no pinholes.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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I will have a play about with a couple of small parts to get a feel so im better equipped for the larger panels. Will give the mudguard a go next week.
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Matthieu Libeert
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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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Had to leave the bike sad and lonely for a couple of weeks due to going to Oulton Park and Anglesey for some track time, since getting back I've kicked back in with the moulds and made a couple more. I made the rear hugger, sorry forgot to take photos so will post the infusion. I got the nose cone back out that I'd 3/4 prepared, fitted the up stand to make it a two part mould and got the resin out. Ready for tooling gel coat.  First layer of tooling gel coat ready.  Glassed up and ready for the other side to be applied, i gave the split a clean with mould cleaner then applied 6 or 7 coats of easy lease.  Second side with first layer of tooling gel coat appided.  All finished.   If anyone wants some advice its don't get greedy and only mix a couple of hundred grams of resin at a time, first pot i mixed was 500 grams and after about 200/250 grams was applied it cooked up in the pot. I you are working large flat areas its ok but on smallish complicated shapes you will regret it. Ive not had time to split it down due to work so will post the finished mould plus the infusion when time allows. I also made the V piece for my belly pan and this has to be a prime example of how good this stuff is, i wouldn't advise you do this but i made the plug in around 10 minutes and finished the job in 15. There was around 100grams of tooling gel coat left over so not wanting to waste it i cut some sign board to fit the belly pan, fillet waxed it and coated it in a couple of heavy layers of easy lease while the gel coat was cooking in the pot, as i applied it i could tell i needed to work fast  banged a layer of glass putty on and a couple of layers of glass over that. I find its loads better with a layer of glass on the back, i made some frame guards for the road bike using the putty and one broke in half without the extra strength the glass gives. anyhow it turned out very well and will work a treat. Its a small part that you can hardly see so i didn't want to put a lot of time in. V piece mould.  There are three small voids that are all off part, i will touch these up before lay up, i will only wet lay and low vacuum bag this part. I also made the side panel return mould. This is a tiny 1" thin edge that should be part of the side panel, when i made the three part uni system mould (still to lay up) i kept it simple by leaving this piece out, you cannot see it and the mould would have been way too complex for my limited expertise, Its a good job as its near impossible to keep the weave straight due to the size of part. Sign board edge to panel, ready to gel.  Finished ready to break down.  3 layers of 200grm cf, peel ply, perforated film, cloth plus a light vac.  Finished trimmed part placed in the side panel mould as would fit to panel, like i said slight weave damage but it at 1" wide its a night mare to cut and unseen.  I will get the nose cone finished this week and hopefully make the finished part at the weekend, also im off work for a week on the 29th so will go for the biggie, the seat.
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Hanaldo
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For tricky little strip's of fabric like that, I suggest getting some spray adhesive from EC and spray your carbon fabric with it before cutting. Let it dry, then after about 15 minutes it shouldn't be sticky at all any more. This fabric will then behave like a set-weave fabric like EC's Profinish, and you can cut it very accurately and intricately without it fraying too badly. Not as good as pre-preg, but much easier than loose fabric. Then when you place it in the mould, place the side that you sprayed with adhesive facing you, so the 'dry' side is on the mould surface. You won't get any cosmetic defects from the adhesive this way.
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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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Yes got you mate and already there. I've purchased some FusionFix™ GP and also got some pro carbon for the side panels.Intend to have a go with both and compare the out come.I'm glad I've stayed with the moulds as im my confident with my work and the 10 minute V piece is as good as something id have spend three days on previously.
If I can get another done for the holiday I will have time to do a few carbon parts and hopefully nail the finished parts.I feel ok with the infusing but everything that I've wet lay and bagged has been slightly off so I will make a few of the panel ends and see if i can get a better feel for it,seems a darker art than the infusion.
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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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Found a few hours so pulled the nose cone from the new mould.  WOW, so glad i repainted the panels as near perfect finish in the mould, apart from the 4 or 5 tiny pieces of paint (that peck off with a finger nail) its good enough to use as is. I will give it a quick once over with the mop and polish then start applying the easy lease. 
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scottracing
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impressive work, I might have to buy another bike just so you can make some parts for it 
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VVS
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Group: Moderators
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Haha, still learning my trade, should have it sussed by the time I finish the bike,
problem then is I will have to redo all the panels as I wont be happy with the first ones.
You ever fancied a Katana 1100, I'd love to see one done in cf with some nice Yoshi parts + racefit titanium, that would be worth doing.
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