Precision Auto Engineering


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davro
davro
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Fine work there Hanaldo

Love the Airbox and that is a damn nice power bulge you have there on your bonnet Wink




David Stevens
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VVS
VVS
VVS
posted 9 Years Ago HOT
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That's very impressive mate.

do you use the filleting was between the bonnet edge and the infusion lip?

is it just practice regards getting a nice flow between the two, I feel I'm getting a slight drop in the wax,

wondered if its due to the heat in the cure or just me being a nube.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Thanks Davro Smile

VVS, yep I use the filleting wax. Not quite sure what you mean by flow though. I'm also not totally sure how it would require practice, it's as simple as pushing some wax in and smoothing it out with your finger... I do know however that it is not at all suitable for elevated temperature cures. The heat from your resin exotherming should be fine unless it's way too hot, but if you are working in an ambient temperature of 35 degrees C or need to accelerate your cure in an oven, the wax will melt and cause problems.
TomDesign
TomDesign
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any photo or smth how you made bad side with so many angles in straight pattern?
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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The bad side being the inner skin? Patience really. A lot of repositioning. It took about an hour to lay that first layer of carbon kevlar into the mould. 

To be honest, the weave isn't perfect. I'm not one to be fussed about getting the pattern straight unless the customer specifically asks for it or its a cosmetic piece. For the inner skin of a full time race car, it was never a priority.
TomDesign
TomDesign
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ou as i have to do hood for perfect inside look and do not know how to do.
Also Hanaldo can you suggest for hands lay how many layers and weight fiberglass you suggest for widebodykit kit car a street car?
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Just take your time and be patient. The more you handle the fabric the more likely you are to mess up the weave, so try to handle it as little as you can. If you are infusing, cut the fabric with plenty of excess, and just lay it loosely into the mould, don't use any spray tacks. If you stuff the placement up with a spray tack then you are much more likely to ruin the weave trying to reposition it. Instead lay everything in loosely and just gently push it down into any corners so it is sitting sort of right. Then use the vacuum to really get it into the corners. You will have to pull vac and release it a few times to get everything right, but the vacuum will distribute an even pressure and pull the weave evenly, so it keeps it much nicer. You can also really push and pull the bag around without distorting things too much. 

As for the fibreglass kit, we have a law in Oz that states any GRP panels on a street car must be at least 3mm thick. So that is the thickness I would be aiming for, so maybe 1 layer of 225 and 2-3 layers of 450. Even better would be with some sort of core. 
TomDesign
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so how you can suggest ouu master Wink)
as i do all panels even headlights.
and where panels big if i lay 450 3 layer that gonna be not stable what you suggest? what suggest more? for hard angles i think to mix resin and glass bublles? any advice be amazing pull.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Yeh it can be an issue, hence why I work with infusion only Wink if I had too though, for big panels, I would probably lay it up in a couple of stages. 2 layers 225, let it cure, sand and clean, then another 2 layers 225. 

For tight corners, bit of resin and some loose chop strand. Thicken the resin up a bit with glass bubbles or fumed silica if it wants to run away, but make sure there are plenty of fibres in there. I would even do it with an epoxy resin for more strength, but that then changes the rest of your layup process. 
TomDesign
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so you agree on be if i lay gelcoat then bubles mixed with resin on to the corners . Then fiberglass 3-4 layes yes?
GO

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